Climbing Knots and Hitches Library
*Commonly used as a belay or rappel backup. Multidirectional. *Hitch is complete when there are enough wraps to cause the hitch to bite on the rope.
*Most often used for closing the system by tying in the unused end(s) of the rope.
*Commonly used for natural anchors. *Must have an double overhand or barrel knot finish around standing end to be complete. *Should not be used for tying into harness to climb.
*Commonly used for clipping from figure-eight follow through tie in from harness into an anchor. *Can also be used to clip into ground anchor. *Must be cinched tight to function properly.
*Commonly used for joining two ends of rope or cord (especially ropes of different diameters). *Difficult to untie after weighted. *Can get stuck when pulling rappel lines.
*The first step in tying the Figure 8 Follow-Through Knot.
*Commonly used for tying into harness. *Must have at least six inches of tail. *Notes: be sure to tie into both hard points on the harness (i.e. where the belay loop runs through the harness).
*Most often used for joining the ends of two different ropes for rappelling. *Proper dressing is essential so the knot does not roll and become untied. *Always back up with an overhand around one strand, as shown above. *Tails should be 18 inches in length.
*Commonly used for an anchor point around a tree. *Commonly used for securing an attachment (e.g. a sling) to harness hard-points.
*Unidirectional friction hitch. *Commonly used for protecting self at the edge of a cliff on a fixed line. *Also used for ascending a line in emergency situations. *Hitch is complete when there are enough wraps to cause the hitch to bite on the rope.
*Commonly used as belay or rappel friction hitch. *Useful if a belay device is dropped. *Must use a backup such as an autoblock on the brake strand. *Can create twists in the rope. To prevent this, keep the two strands as parallel as possible.
*Multi-directional friction hitch. *Commonly used in rescue situations, e.g. ascending a rope. *Used in mountaineering to create friction on fixed ropes. *Can be used as a rappel backup on the brake side. However, can “lock” onto rope and become difficult to release. *Hitch is complete when there are enough wraps to cause the hitch to bite on the rope.
*Most often used for joining ends of webbing. *Often used for anchors. *Be sure that there are no twists in the webbing. All parts should lay flat.
Protect America's Climbing
Climbing Education, Advocacy, History, and Member Benefits
Climbing Guide Education
Bolt replacement and education
Climbing guides, routes, photos, & forum
Climbing routes, areas, and topos