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Climbing Knots and Hitches Library
Autoblock
*Commonly used as a belay or rappel backup.
Multidirectional.

*Hitch is complete when there are enough wraps to cause the hitch to bite on the rope.
Barrel Knot
*Most often used for closing the system by tying in the unused end(s) of the rope.
Double Bowline
*Commonly used for natural anchors.

*Must have an double overhand or barrel knot finish around standing end to be complete.

*Should not be used for tying into harness to climb.
Clove Hitch
*Commonly used for clipping from figure-eight follow through tie in from harness into an anchor.

*Can also be used to clip into ground anchor.

*Must be cinched tight to function properly.
Double Fishermans
*Commonly used for joining two ends of rope or cord (especially ropes of different diameters).

*Difficult to untie after weighted.

*Can get stuck when pulling rappel lines.
Figure 8
*The first step in tying the Figure 8 Follow-Through Knot.
Figure 8 Follow-Through
*Commonly used for tying into harness.

*Must have at least six inches of tail.

*Notes: be sure to tie into both hard points on the harness (i.e. where the belay loop runs through the harness).
Flat Overhand with Backup
*Most often used for joining the ends of two different ropes for rappelling.
*Proper dressing is essential so the knot does not roll and become untied.
*Always back up with an overhand around one strand, as shown above.
*Tails should be 18 inches in length.
Girth Hitch
*Commonly used for an anchor point around a tree.

*Commonly used for securing an attachment (e.g. a sling) to harness hard-points.
Klemheist
*Unidirectional friction hitch.

*Commonly used for protecting self at the edge of a cliff on a fixed line.

*Also used for ascending a line in emergency situations.

*Hitch is complete when there are enough wraps to cause the hitch to bite on the rope.
Munter
*Commonly used as belay or rappel friction hitch.

*Useful if a belay device is dropped.

*Must use a backup such as an autoblock on the brake strand.

*Can create twists in the rope. To prevent this, keep the two strands as parallel as possible.
Prusick
*Multi-directional friction hitch.

*Commonly used in rescue situations, e.g. ascending a rope.

*Used in mountaineering to create friction on fixed ropes.

*Can be used as a rappel backup on the brake side. However, can “lock” onto rope and become difficult to release.

*Hitch is complete when there are enough wraps to cause the hitch to bite on the rope.
Water Knot
*Most often used for joining ends of webbing.

*Often used for anchors.

*Be sure that there are no twists in the webbing. All parts should lay flat.
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